Drinks of the Month

 Two massively drinkable natural wines for under £10

Two massively drinkable natural wines for under £10

I’ve long been a fan of natural wine but can’t argue with the fact that it’s expensive. For good reason - it’s often made on a very small scale by artisan producers but that generally takes it out of the realm of everyday drinking.

So hats off to natural wine pioneers Les Caves de Pyrène who have collaborated with winemaker Luca Hodgkinson to make two delicious wines you’d be as pleased to drink on a midweek night in as to find in a wine bar.

The red, La Cueva, a blend of pais, carignan and cabernet sauvignon from the Maule valley, is a light juicy vin de soif I’d be inclined to chill and which would be great gulped down with a selection of mezze or antipasti.

But it’s the white, La Patagua a hazy blend of semillon and moscatel from the Colchagua valley with a lovely taste of fresh pineapple which really excites me. It would be great with all sorts of seafood and salads but at 14.5% it’s more alcoholic than it tastes so watch it!

Both the wines come from the 2021 vintage, are made from organically grown (but uncertified) old vines and vinified with natural yeasts. You can buy them for £9.05 from Les Caves or online from Lola in Leamington Spa for £9

Wine of the week: Zarper malbec

Wine of the week: Zarper malbec

I was going to recommend a rosé this week having got the misguided impression from the heatwave last weekend that summer was on its way. But today in my home town of Bristol it’s cold, windy and about to rain so I think malbec is more the order of the day.

This Zarper Malbec from Indomita is one I came across at the Morrisons tasting earlier in the week. It comes from Chile rather than Argentina - which is more common these days than it was a couple of years ago.

It shares the bold spicy character of its neighbour over the Andes with maybe a touch softer, riper fruit. It ain’t subtle but if you’re a fan of big reds it’s a handsome bottle at a decent price - £8 - that would be great with a barbecue or, given the weather, a chilli con carne.

What food to match with malbec

I’ve been assured the 2017 vintage, which is the one I tasted is in stock, so make sure that’s the one you buy.

The sauvignon blanc from the same producer at the same price is decent too.

 Wine of the week: Morande One to One Pais

Wine of the week: Morande One to One Pais

They say that the best wine is the bottle that’s empty at the end of the evening and so it proved with this light Chilean red which I shared with my neighbours the other night.

It’s made by Morandé from the widely planted pais (pronounced pye-eece) which has been disregarded for years but is now being used to make appealingly fresh tasting fruity reds that are just right for a warm summer’s evening.

Like Beaujolais, which it resembles, you can drink it lightly chilled with charcuterie, salads and other picnicky food or even with fish. It would be great with seared tuna for example.

And the best news of all? It’s available in Majestic for a very reasonable £6.99 on their mix six deal.

NB probably not for you if you’re a fan of full-bodied reds as I know many are, even during the summer months but I loved it.

Koyle Costa Sauvignon Blanc, Colchagua Costa 2012

Koyle Costa Sauvignon Blanc, Colchagua Costa 2012

If you’re a Sauvignon Blanc fan but are looking for something a little different try this deliciously fresh, elegant Chilean Sauvignon.

It comes from Paradones in the Colchagua region rather than the Casablanca or Leyda regions that Chilean Sauvignon usually comes from so there’s less citrus and more of a crisp mineral, almost saline character - the vineyards that are only 9 km from the sea. That obviously makes it the perfect partner for fresh shellfish or simply grilled fish. It’s also unusually modest in alcohol for Chile at 12.5%.

Interestingly Koyle is owned by the Underraga family who have apparently sold the wine business which bears their name and devoted themselves to this ambitious new project. The vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically - there’s an interesting post on this vintage on Chilean wine tour operator Liz Caskey’s blog Eatwine.

The grapes are apparently harvested in three different parcels and vinified three different ways - in burgundy barrels, concrete eggs and stainless steel.

Oviously the family have aspirations for the wine - it arrived wrapped in white paper - but the price of £10.50 is more than reasonable for a wine of this quality. That can’t last so I would take the opportunity to snap up what I suspect will be a future Chilean classic.

If you want to include a Chilean red in your order try the bright breezy 2013 De Martino Gallarda del Itala Cinsault which you should enjoy if you’re a Beaujolais fan though I’m not sure I’d go along with the Society’s food recommendation of toad in the hole with it (sausages baked in in batter for the uninitiated!). A nice rare piece of tuna would suit me just fine*.

* see this post for other recommendations for food pairings with Sauvignon Blanc

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